Intermediate Extra! - How to tape a drop bar like a pro

Mark asked me to show him how to re tape his bars, unfortunately we don't have time, but here's some good sites and my personal tips.


Note: a handlebar holder or toe strap wrapped around the front wheel and downtube will make job easier by keeping handlebars still

Watch this video while also reading my notes (see the corresponding time stamps) http://bicycletutor.com/drop-handlebar-tape/

Taping drop bars video notes (there are a lot because he does a semi-pro job)

(0:30) lever alignment: STI levers are longer, so this method will put them higher, also modern handlebars come in a lot of different sizes and drop "depth". I like to set the brake levers high enough that they are level with the flat/top section of the handlebar, so that there is a long flat stretch from the stem to the brake levers, if you look at pictures of Lance Armstrong his brake levers are even higher, really it's all about personal preference, but brake levers have a tendency to slip down, and I think a lot of people don't take the time to reposition them when re taping their bars. See the park website for a picture of good lever position.

(0:36) - "Loosen your brake cable and compress the brake lever to find the tightening bolt" on non STI/Ergo/Sram levers. STI-(high end models) pull back the hood from the front or forward from the back to expose bolt on top of lever "body", (less expensive & older models) bolt is under hood on outside of shift lever (right side of right shifter, left side of left shifter). Ergo- pull back the hood from the front or forward from the back to expose bolt on top of lever "body". Sram- roll hood forward from back of lever to expose bolt on top of lever "body".

(0:40) secure the cables however is appropriate for the levers you have: front, behind, front & behind, 2 in front, 2 behind... The possibilities depend on you levers, try out the different possibilities and use your favorite


(0:45) before you start wrapping test the tape for stretch until you break a little bit of the end. When putting the piece around the brake lever clamp you may need to use electrical tape to hold it to a plastic lever. He put this piece a little to high (1/4") on the brake lever, and there will be a little gap below it and an excess bulge above it.


(1:20) He wraps in the wrong direction, see the park website. You should go counter clockwise (as seen from behind) on right, and clockwise on left. On the first wrap around the bar I leave more tape hanging off the end, I do a complete circle so that there is 1/2 the width hanging of the end all the way around, this will hold your bar plug in much better, be sure to start wrapping at the 6:00 position


(1:40) I like to wrap below the brake levers tighter so that the tape is thinner and I have extra for the flats above the levers. Remember to TEST STRETCH the tape before you start so you know the breaking point. If extra padding is desired on the top of the bar (flats) you can put a layer of your old tape, a layer of innertube, or some type of high density foam, any padding material you like really... It is common to see even the pros adding padding to their handlebar tape for rough surfaces like the Paris-Roubaix.

(2:10) after wrapping the break lever as shown, do one or two revolutions and then fold back the hoods to make sure the tape coverage is good, also check the overlap on the underside of the handlebar bend because haven't been looking at it and it's easy to have a gap go unnoticed until it's to late.

(2:20) also check that your tape isn't as lumpy as his, I try to keep it smoother, thinner on the drops, & thicker on top.


(2:30) ignore his advice about finishing cutting and electrical taping, he does a ghetto job. 1. it's not good to use a razor on your handlebar (as he mentioned earlier) and NEVER USE A RAZOR BLADE ON CARBON HANDLEBARS!!! 2. he leaves a sloppy finish with the electrical tape.

WHAT TO DO INSTEAD: First see the park website for some good pictures: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71

This is the way to finish a tape job that Lance Armstrong's mechanic (Julien DeVries) uses:

CUTTING BAR TAPE:
1. wrap bar tape a couple of turns past the point where you want to end (the "end line") in the pictures and videos there is a sharp edge where the handlebar shim ends, on newer bars there will just be a bulge, if you make the end line near the smaller side of the bulge you will have a smooth transition from tape to bar.

2. look all the way around the bar and find the point where the edge of the tape cross the "end line" mark that spot with an X with a ballpoint or sharpie.

3. unwrap a few turns and you will see half the X (<) on part of the tape and the other half the X further back (>) cut diagonally from <> and you will have a perfectly straight edge, see pictures on Park web page.

4. This avoids using a sharp blade on your handlebar which will void the warranty & be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS on a CARBON handlebar!!!

WRAPPING ELECTRIC TAPE:
1. pick a contrasting color of electric tape, Julien usually used red on Lance's Postal & Discovery bikes.

2. starting at 6:00 position and ~1/2" from "end line" wrap once or twice around bar pulling tape tight, & keep tape in a straight line, then underneath the bar at 6:00 pull the tape over so that it is hangs over just past the end of the bar tape (~ 1/16-1/8") pull gently on the tape just enough so that the edge hanging out off the edge of the bar tape curls over and covers the cut edge of the bar tape, wrap once or twice keeping the electrical tape curling over the cut edge of the bar tape.

3. Use the "logo tape" supplied by the manufacturer with the bar tape to cover the seam between the two layers of electrical tape (down the middle). DON'T PULL TOO TIGHT on the logo tape, it's usually not as stretchy as electrical tape. Also make sure you finish with tape at 6:00, & cut DON'T TEAR the electrical tape and logo tape. Seal the end of the two tapes with heat. By not overstretching the last layer of electrical tape it decreases the tendency to peel.

When done PROPERLY all you will see at the end of the bar tape is 2 red pinstripes and the brand name tape down the middle. The end of the handlebar tape will be covered by the red tape, but the red tape won't extend onto the handlebar (like it does in the video). It will look like the last picture on the park web page, but you won't have to do the silly "pinstripe" method, Park's method will peel off too easily. And you won't have to color the edge of the bar tape with a sharpie.

ALTERNATE TO ELECTRIC TAPE:

1. You can use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape, but you have to remove the brake levers and slide the heat shrink tubing on before taping the bars. Use heat shrink that will shrink to 1" diameter.

2. To be super duper fancy get a hole punch with fancy shapes from a craft store and punch cool patterns in the heat shrink, and then use a contrasting color of electrical tape under the heat shrink. WOW!

There are other methods for wrapping bar tape: some people like to start taping at the stem and work down, thpppffffftttttt (is all I can say to that). The park website describes a couple of modifications to my method. The method described is what I see most pros use. Some people have ridiculously strong opinions about taping drop bars (like most other bicycle topics), pick what method you like, and if you have a good reason for doing it, maybe you'll get me to change my recommended method.

I hope that answers all your questions, let me know. Paul