Here's Some articles to get started learning about brakes
http://sheldonbrown.com/brakes/index.html This article will lead you to all the other brake pages
http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html
Also check out the Park tool website pages about brakes, the list is here: http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=14&imageField2.x=26&imageField2.y=9
And the bicycle tutor videos are good:
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-v-brakes/ Adjusting V-brakes: (As always I have a few notes)
(0:20) tighten the clamp snug enough that the levers will still move in a crash
(0:45) don't remove the pads unless replacing, check pads for debrit and uneven wear, also inspect the rims for wear
(1:30) with v-brakes you can usually just bend the springs by hand to increase tension.
(1:50) pads may need to be toed in if brakes are squeeky. Check the brake arms for
excessive play, especially if they have the shimano "parallel push mechanism".
(2:50) leave the brakes loose enough that they won't rub on an out of true wheel, or lead to "eagle claw" on long descents. Different brands of brakes may use different methods of balancing the springs.
http://bicycletutor.com/sidepull-caliper-brakes/ Adjusting Sidepull brakes:
These are traditional single pivot brakes, newer dual pivot brakes are slightly different.
(0:55) also inspect the rims for wear
(1:50) setting the brakes too tight will make them rub on a wobbly wheel, and lead to forearm/hand cramping on long descents
(2:50 ) also lube the springs where they contact the brake arms to stop squeeks.
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-cantilever-brakes/ Adjusting Cantilever brakes:
(0:30) tighten the clamp snugly so that the levers will move in a crash.
(1:00) DON'T tighten barrel adjuster all the way, use it to take up the slack you will need when you are done (about 6 turns out)
(1:10) only remove the pads if you're going to replace them, also inspect the rims for wear (2:00) use a folded over business card or a few layers of electrical tape as a toe in gauge.
(2:30) The straddle wire or link wire should be set for 90 degree angle.
(3:00) Different brands of brakes may use different methods of balancing the springs
http://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/ This page has pictures and discriptions of lots of rare and interesting brakes, check it out.
Showing posts with label Intermediate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Intermediate. Show all posts
6/25/09
Intermediate Extra! - How to patch a saddle tear
So you just tore a gash in your expensive new saddle with a leather cover, what do you do?
Well one option is to carefully peel off the torn cover (very carefully) and glue on a new cover. It's best to practice this on a cheap seat first. A cobbler may be able to do it for a price. Some missionaries came to my old shop in Eugene and recovered all our old saddles for $20 each or shop credit. 1 year later they came to my shop in Manhattan and charged $30 each (everythings more expensive in NYC).
The easy fix is to cover the tear with electrical tape.
Before anyone starts yelling at me about how electrical tape will peel off let me say this. I have used the following method many times, and the tape has stayed put for years.
How is this possible?
"Corners rounded, must be" said Yoda (AKA Ric Hjertberg, co-founder of Wheelsmith).
Just use scissors to round off the corners of the tape and it won't peel, really. Basically the tape should look like an oval tube patch, with no sharp corners. If you're really spiffy you'll use colored electrical tape that matches your saddle.
This has worked well for me on the front, top, and sides of my saddles. The only place it doesn't work as well is the corner between the back end and top, because it gets pulled tight when you sit. So I use longer pieces layed perpendicular to the tear
Hope that helps.
Well one option is to carefully peel off the torn cover (very carefully) and glue on a new cover. It's best to practice this on a cheap seat first. A cobbler may be able to do it for a price. Some missionaries came to my old shop in Eugene and recovered all our old saddles for $20 each or shop credit. 1 year later they came to my shop in Manhattan and charged $30 each (everythings more expensive in NYC).
The easy fix is to cover the tear with electrical tape.
Before anyone starts yelling at me about how electrical tape will peel off let me say this. I have used the following method many times, and the tape has stayed put for years.
How is this possible?
"Corners rounded, must be" said Yoda (AKA Ric Hjertberg, co-founder of Wheelsmith).
Just use scissors to round off the corners of the tape and it won't peel, really. Basically the tape should look like an oval tube patch, with no sharp corners. If you're really spiffy you'll use colored electrical tape that matches your saddle.
This has worked well for me on the front, top, and sides of my saddles. The only place it doesn't work as well is the corner between the back end and top, because it gets pulled tight when you sit. So I use longer pieces layed perpendicular to the tear
Hope that helps.
Intermediate Extra! - How to tape a drop bar like a pro
Mark asked me to show him how to re tape his bars, unfortunately we don't have time, but here's some good sites and my personal tips.
Note: a handlebar holder or toe strap wrapped around the front wheel and downtube will make job easier by keeping handlebars still
Watch this video while also reading my notes (see the corresponding time stamps) http://bicycletutor.com/drop-handlebar-tape/
Taping drop bars video notes (there are a lot because he does a semi-pro job)
(0:30) lever alignment: STI levers are longer, so this method will put them higher, also modern handlebars come in a lot of different sizes and drop "depth". I like to set the brake levers high enough that they are level with the flat/top section of the handlebar, so that there is a long flat stretch from the stem to the brake levers, if you look at pictures of Lance Armstrong his brake levers are even higher, really it's all about personal preference, but brake levers have a tendency to slip down, and I think a lot of people don't take the time to reposition them when re taping their bars. See the park website for a picture of good lever position.
(0:36) - "Loosen your brake cable and compress the brake lever to find the tightening bolt" on non STI/Ergo/Sram levers. STI-(high end models) pull back the hood from the front or forward from the back to expose bolt on top of lever "body", (less expensive & older models) bolt is under hood on outside of shift lever (right side of right shifter, left side of left shifter). Ergo- pull back the hood from the front or forward from the back to expose bolt on top of lever "body". Sram- roll hood forward from back of lever to expose bolt on top of lever "body".
(0:40) secure the cables however is appropriate for the levers you have: front, behind, front & behind, 2 in front, 2 behind... The possibilities depend on you levers, try out the different possibilities and use your favorite
(0:45) before you start wrapping test the tape for stretch until you break a little bit of the end. When putting the piece around the brake lever clamp you may need to use electrical tape to hold it to a plastic lever. He put this piece a little to high (1/4") on the brake lever, and there will be a little gap below it and an excess bulge above it.
(1:20) He wraps in the wrong direction, see the park website. You should go counter clockwise (as seen from behind) on right, and clockwise on left. On the first wrap around the bar I leave more tape hanging off the end, I do a complete circle so that there is 1/2 the width hanging of the end all the way around, this will hold your bar plug in much better, be sure to start wrapping at the 6:00 position
(1:40) I like to wrap below the brake levers tighter so that the tape is thinner and I have extra for the flats above the levers. Remember to TEST STRETCH the tape before you start so you know the breaking point. If extra padding is desired on the top of the bar (flats) you can put a layer of your old tape, a layer of innertube, or some type of high density foam, any padding material you like really... It is common to see even the pros adding padding to their handlebar tape for rough surfaces like the Paris-Roubaix.
(2:10) after wrapping the break lever as shown, do one or two revolutions and then fold back the hoods to make sure the tape coverage is good, also check the overlap on the underside of the handlebar bend because haven't been looking at it and it's easy to have a gap go unnoticed until it's to late.
(2:20) also check that your tape isn't as lumpy as his, I try to keep it smoother, thinner on the drops, & thicker on top.
(2:30) ignore his advice about finishing cutting and electrical taping, he does a ghetto job. 1. it's not good to use a razor on your handlebar (as he mentioned earlier) and NEVER USE A RAZOR BLADE ON CARBON HANDLEBARS!!! 2. he leaves a sloppy finish with the electrical tape.
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD: First see the park website for some good pictures: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71
This is the way to finish a tape job that Lance Armstrong's mechanic (Julien DeVries) uses:
CUTTING BAR TAPE:
1. wrap bar tape a couple of turns past the point where you want to end (the "end line") in the pictures and videos there is a sharp edge where the handlebar shim ends, on newer bars there will just be a bulge, if you make the end line near the smaller side of the bulge you will have a smooth transition from tape to bar.
2. look all the way around the bar and find the point where the edge of the tape cross the "end line" mark that spot with an X with a ballpoint or sharpie.
3. unwrap a few turns and you will see half the X (<) on part of the tape and the other half the X further back (>) cut diagonally from <> and you will have a perfectly straight edge, see pictures on Park web page.
4. This avoids using a sharp blade on your handlebar which will void the warranty & be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS on a CARBON handlebar!!!
WRAPPING ELECTRIC TAPE:
1. pick a contrasting color of electric tape, Julien usually used red on Lance's Postal & Discovery bikes.
2. starting at 6:00 position and ~1/2" from "end line" wrap once or twice around bar pulling tape tight, & keep tape in a straight line, then underneath the bar at 6:00 pull the tape over so that it is hangs over just past the end of the bar tape (~ 1/16-1/8") pull gently on the tape just enough so that the edge hanging out off the edge of the bar tape curls over and covers the cut edge of the bar tape, wrap once or twice keeping the electrical tape curling over the cut edge of the bar tape.
3. Use the "logo tape" supplied by the manufacturer with the bar tape to cover the seam between the two layers of electrical tape (down the middle). DON'T PULL TOO TIGHT on the logo tape, it's usually not as stretchy as electrical tape. Also make sure you finish with tape at 6:00, & cut DON'T TEAR the electrical tape and logo tape. Seal the end of the two tapes with heat. By not overstretching the last layer of electrical tape it decreases the tendency to peel.
When done PROPERLY all you will see at the end of the bar tape is 2 red pinstripes and the brand name tape down the middle. The end of the handlebar tape will be covered by the red tape, but the red tape won't extend onto the handlebar (like it does in the video). It will look like the last picture on the park web page, but you won't have to do the silly "pinstripe" method, Park's method will peel off too easily. And you won't have to color the edge of the bar tape with a sharpie.
ALTERNATE TO ELECTRIC TAPE:
1. You can use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape, but you have to remove the brake levers and slide the heat shrink tubing on before taping the bars. Use heat shrink that will shrink to 1" diameter.
2. To be super duper fancy get a hole punch with fancy shapes from a craft store and punch cool patterns in the heat shrink, and then use a contrasting color of electrical tape under the heat shrink. WOW!
There are other methods for wrapping bar tape: some people like to start taping at the stem and work down, thpppffffftttttt (is all I can say to that). The park website describes a couple of modifications to my method. The method described is what I see most pros use. Some people have ridiculously strong opinions about taping drop bars (like most other bicycle topics), pick what method you like, and if you have a good reason for doing it, maybe you'll get me to change my recommended method.
I hope that answers all your questions, let me know. Paul
Note: a handlebar holder or toe strap wrapped around the front wheel and downtube will make job easier by keeping handlebars still
Watch this video while also reading my notes (see the corresponding time stamps) http://bicycletutor.com/drop-handlebar-tape/
Taping drop bars video notes (there are a lot because he does a semi-pro job)
(0:30) lever alignment: STI levers are longer, so this method will put them higher, also modern handlebars come in a lot of different sizes and drop "depth". I like to set the brake levers high enough that they are level with the flat/top section of the handlebar, so that there is a long flat stretch from the stem to the brake levers, if you look at pictures of Lance Armstrong his brake levers are even higher, really it's all about personal preference, but brake levers have a tendency to slip down, and I think a lot of people don't take the time to reposition them when re taping their bars. See the park website for a picture of good lever position.
(0:36) - "Loosen your brake cable and compress the brake lever to find the tightening bolt" on non STI/Ergo/Sram levers. STI-(high end models) pull back the hood from the front or forward from the back to expose bolt on top of lever "body", (less expensive & older models) bolt is under hood on outside of shift lever (right side of right shifter, left side of left shifter). Ergo- pull back the hood from the front or forward from the back to expose bolt on top of lever "body". Sram- roll hood forward from back of lever to expose bolt on top of lever "body".
(0:40) secure the cables however is appropriate for the levers you have: front, behind, front & behind, 2 in front, 2 behind... The possibilities depend on you levers, try out the different possibilities and use your favorite
(0:45) before you start wrapping test the tape for stretch until you break a little bit of the end. When putting the piece around the brake lever clamp you may need to use electrical tape to hold it to a plastic lever. He put this piece a little to high (1/4") on the brake lever, and there will be a little gap below it and an excess bulge above it.
(1:20) He wraps in the wrong direction, see the park website. You should go counter clockwise (as seen from behind) on right, and clockwise on left. On the first wrap around the bar I leave more tape hanging off the end, I do a complete circle so that there is 1/2 the width hanging of the end all the way around, this will hold your bar plug in much better, be sure to start wrapping at the 6:00 position
(1:40) I like to wrap below the brake levers tighter so that the tape is thinner and I have extra for the flats above the levers. Remember to TEST STRETCH the tape before you start so you know the breaking point. If extra padding is desired on the top of the bar (flats) you can put a layer of your old tape, a layer of innertube, or some type of high density foam, any padding material you like really... It is common to see even the pros adding padding to their handlebar tape for rough surfaces like the Paris-Roubaix.
(2:10) after wrapping the break lever as shown, do one or two revolutions and then fold back the hoods to make sure the tape coverage is good, also check the overlap on the underside of the handlebar bend because haven't been looking at it and it's easy to have a gap go unnoticed until it's to late.
(2:20) also check that your tape isn't as lumpy as his, I try to keep it smoother, thinner on the drops, & thicker on top.
(2:30) ignore his advice about finishing cutting and electrical taping, he does a ghetto job. 1. it's not good to use a razor on your handlebar (as he mentioned earlier) and NEVER USE A RAZOR BLADE ON CARBON HANDLEBARS!!! 2. he leaves a sloppy finish with the electrical tape.
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD: First see the park website for some good pictures: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71
This is the way to finish a tape job that Lance Armstrong's mechanic (Julien DeVries) uses:
CUTTING BAR TAPE:
1. wrap bar tape a couple of turns past the point where you want to end (the "end line") in the pictures and videos there is a sharp edge where the handlebar shim ends, on newer bars there will just be a bulge, if you make the end line near the smaller side of the bulge you will have a smooth transition from tape to bar.
2. look all the way around the bar and find the point where the edge of the tape cross the "end line" mark that spot with an X with a ballpoint or sharpie.
3. unwrap a few turns and you will see half the X (<) on part of the tape and the other half the X further back (>) cut diagonally from <> and you will have a perfectly straight edge, see pictures on Park web page.
4. This avoids using a sharp blade on your handlebar which will void the warranty & be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS on a CARBON handlebar!!!
WRAPPING ELECTRIC TAPE:
1. pick a contrasting color of electric tape, Julien usually used red on Lance's Postal & Discovery bikes.
2. starting at 6:00 position and ~1/2" from "end line" wrap once or twice around bar pulling tape tight, & keep tape in a straight line, then underneath the bar at 6:00 pull the tape over so that it is hangs over just past the end of the bar tape (~ 1/16-1/8") pull gently on the tape just enough so that the edge hanging out off the edge of the bar tape curls over and covers the cut edge of the bar tape, wrap once or twice keeping the electrical tape curling over the cut edge of the bar tape.
3. Use the "logo tape" supplied by the manufacturer with the bar tape to cover the seam between the two layers of electrical tape (down the middle). DON'T PULL TOO TIGHT on the logo tape, it's usually not as stretchy as electrical tape. Also make sure you finish with tape at 6:00, & cut DON'T TEAR the electrical tape and logo tape. Seal the end of the two tapes with heat. By not overstretching the last layer of electrical tape it decreases the tendency to peel.
When done PROPERLY all you will see at the end of the bar tape is 2 red pinstripes and the brand name tape down the middle. The end of the handlebar tape will be covered by the red tape, but the red tape won't extend onto the handlebar (like it does in the video). It will look like the last picture on the park web page, but you won't have to do the silly "pinstripe" method, Park's method will peel off too easily. And you won't have to color the edge of the bar tape with a sharpie.
ALTERNATE TO ELECTRIC TAPE:
1. You can use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape, but you have to remove the brake levers and slide the heat shrink tubing on before taping the bars. Use heat shrink that will shrink to 1" diameter.
2. To be super duper fancy get a hole punch with fancy shapes from a craft store and punch cool patterns in the heat shrink, and then use a contrasting color of electrical tape under the heat shrink. WOW!
There are other methods for wrapping bar tape: some people like to start taping at the stem and work down, thpppffffftttttt (is all I can say to that). The park website describes a couple of modifications to my method. The method described is what I see most pros use. Some people have ridiculously strong opinions about taping drop bars (like most other bicycle topics), pick what method you like, and if you have a good reason for doing it, maybe you'll get me to change my recommended method.
I hope that answers all your questions, let me know. Paul
6/23/09
Intermediate Week 4 - Wheel Truing
Here's some good references, remember that by plucking the spoke like a guitar string the tone can tell you a lot about the relative tension of one spoke to the others in the wheel, but does not tell you the real "amount" of tension.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html you can make spokes too tight, do not tighten spokes until you strip nipples, check overall tension with gauge, truing wheels on your bike is never as accurate, reversing the brake pads is overkill.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html there is good information about spokes, and nipples here, the actual wheel building is beyond the scope of this class
http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm this article explains using tone to judge tension, but is a bit confusing
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=81 good overall of truing
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=82 how to dish/center a wheel
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=128 how to measure tension
http://bicycletutor.com/wheel-truing/ wheel truing video, if truing on bike remove the tire, lube spoke and nipple, the goal is to end up with uniform and appropriate spoke tension, don't turn right side spokes twice as much as left on rear wheel, checking dish on frame assumes your frame is straight, overall a good video but remember the key point of wheel truing is to get even tension so that the wheel is stable. Doesn't address damaged rims.
http://bicycletutor.com/broken-spoke/ broken spoke video, make sure to cross the spoke under it's neighbor
http://www.terminalvelocity.demon.co.uk/WheelBuild/ this website has pictures of alternative lacing patterns, if you're interested.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html you can make spokes too tight, do not tighten spokes until you strip nipples, check overall tension with gauge, truing wheels on your bike is never as accurate, reversing the brake pads is overkill.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html there is good information about spokes, and nipples here, the actual wheel building is beyond the scope of this class
http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm this article explains using tone to judge tension, but is a bit confusing
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=81 good overall of truing
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=82 how to dish/center a wheel
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=128 how to measure tension
http://bicycletutor.com/wheel-truing/ wheel truing video, if truing on bike remove the tire, lube spoke and nipple, the goal is to end up with uniform and appropriate spoke tension, don't turn right side spokes twice as much as left on rear wheel, checking dish on frame assumes your frame is straight, overall a good video but remember the key point of wheel truing is to get even tension so that the wheel is stable. Doesn't address damaged rims.
http://bicycletutor.com/broken-spoke/ broken spoke video, make sure to cross the spoke under it's neighbor
http://www.terminalvelocity.demon.co.uk/WheelBuild/ this website has pictures of alternative lacing patterns, if you're interested.
6/15/09
Intermediate Week 3 - Front Derailer
Here's some info you can look at before class if you have time, or refer back to afterwards
http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html a good introduction into the complicated world of front derailers.
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html this article is fairly technical, but helps understanding chainline.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html this article also covers front derailer adjustment
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75 this Park article covers all the front derailer basics, and has great pictures
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/ video notes: loosen the cable before adjusting height & angle so that cable doesn't pull derailer down, have cable disconnected to check low limit, doesn't address index front shifting very well or trimming fd, see the Sheldon Brown article
http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=%204068 this is a long article, but has some good suggestions for mixing and matching components, also gives you an idea of how complicated picking a front derailer that works can be.
Some chain watchers for the front derailer: N'Gear Jump Stop, Deda Dog Fang, or Third Eye Chain Watcher. k-edge chain catcher: http://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/
If you get sick of front derailers check out Hammerschmidt: http://www.magicmechanics.com/home.php?lang=en#
http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html a good introduction into the complicated world of front derailers.
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html this article is fairly technical, but helps understanding chainline.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html this article also covers front derailer adjustment
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75 this Park article covers all the front derailer basics, and has great pictures
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/ video notes: loosen the cable before adjusting height & angle so that cable doesn't pull derailer down, have cable disconnected to check low limit, doesn't address index front shifting very well or trimming fd, see the Sheldon Brown article
http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=%204068 this is a long article, but has some good suggestions for mixing and matching components, also gives you an idea of how complicated picking a front derailer that works can be.
Some chain watchers for the front derailer: N'Gear Jump Stop, Deda Dog Fang, or Third Eye Chain Watcher. k-edge chain catcher: http://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/
If you get sick of front derailers check out Hammerschmidt: http://www.magicmechanics.com/home.php?lang=en#
Intermediate Week 2- Rear Derailer
Remember that the most common cause of rear shifting problems is a dirty/sticky cable.
Here's a few links to some good information about derailers, gears and shifting:
Front and Rear Derailer adjustment: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
How gears and shifting work: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html a lot of good information about cables and housing
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=39 Hanger alignment
this link from Sheldon Brown's website has some good information about compatability of different parts: http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-rear-derailleur/ Some comments/corrections to video: check that derailer hanger looks straight before adjusting limit screws, adjust high limit screw with cable detached!!! (just pop housing out of frame stop, don't loosen it) You shouldn't ever have to adjust the limit screws if the hanger isn't bent and it was set up correctly when new. If you have a lot of trouble fine tuning the indexing, then the hanger or derailer may be bent. Remember most rear derailers are high normal, the spring pulls the derailer into the smallest/harderst sprocket. But some Shimano derailers are low normal, the spring pulls the derailer into the largest/easiest sprocket, the limit screws adjust the same way, but tightening the cable tension will have the opposite effect.
If you ever decide to give up on derailers all together... check out the Rohloff Speedhub, a 14 speed internally geared hub that gives you the capability of a triple chainring drivetrain. I have dreams about these, or are they nightmares? I will build a Rohloff equipped bike one day :-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7USVMrg5phY&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Esheldonbrown%2Ecom%2Fharris%2Frohloff%2Ehtml&feature=player_embedded
Here's a few links to some good information about derailers, gears and shifting:
Front and Rear Derailer adjustment: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
How gears and shifting work: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html a lot of good information about cables and housing
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=39 Hanger alignment
this link from Sheldon Brown's website has some good information about compatability of different parts: http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946
http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-rear-derailleur/ Some comments/corrections to video: check that derailer hanger looks straight before adjusting limit screws, adjust high limit screw with cable detached!!! (just pop housing out of frame stop, don't loosen it) You shouldn't ever have to adjust the limit screws if the hanger isn't bent and it was set up correctly when new. If you have a lot of trouble fine tuning the indexing, then the hanger or derailer may be bent. Remember most rear derailers are high normal, the spring pulls the derailer into the smallest/harderst sprocket. But some Shimano derailers are low normal, the spring pulls the derailer into the largest/easiest sprocket, the limit screws adjust the same way, but tightening the cable tension will have the opposite effect.
If you ever decide to give up on derailers all together... check out the Rohloff Speedhub, a 14 speed internally geared hub that gives you the capability of a triple chainring drivetrain. I have dreams about these, or are they nightmares? I will build a Rohloff equipped bike one day :-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7USVMrg5phY&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Esheldonbrown%2Ecom%2Fharris%2Frohloff%2Ehtml&feature=player_embedded
Intermediate Week 1- Drivetrain
Here's some good web links and videos to refer to about drivetrains & wear. There are some good points made in the video comments.
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch read this first, then watch the videos
http://bicycletutor.com/remove-install-wheels/ qr was a bit loose (thumb pressure), use palm pressure to close qr, sidepull brakes usually have a qr.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-wear/ also caused by worn CR, worn cogs & chain most likely cause of skipping, cogs will start wearing more @ 12 1/16, lots of good links to other videos
http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/ don't use pliers on multi speed quick links, just squeeze the plates together, not all quick links are reusable.
http://bicycletutor.com/stiff-chain-link/ stiff links also caused by worn bushings & rust, you can't always repair a stiff link, make sure the pin sticks out the same on both sides. don't bend 9-11 speed chains sideways
http://bicycletutor.com/replace-cassette-cluster/ make sure to get the correct lockring tool for your brand of cassette, position tools at 3 & 9 o'clock, push down, and keep your knuckles out of the way, there may be a spacer underneath the last cog, double check the shifting and RD alignment w/ new cogs, always replace cassette w/ same # of gears & appropriate sizes. Make sure gears don't hit spokes.
http://bicycletutor.com/replace-freewheel/ freehubs are stronger and axle better supported, but wear out, use a qr w/ 2 & 4 prong tools to keep tool from slipping, adjust the RD limits after riding the freewheel to tighten it, always lube a freewheel (Phil Wood oil or similar, not grease!) before you put it back on. Make sure gears don't hit spokes.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/, also look for non-remove-able Shimano pins, on 7-11 speed chains you need to re-rivet the pin (Rohloff), use a special pin (Shimano) or use a quick link, follow manufacturer instructions!!! Broken chains can cause lots of expensive damage & nasty crashes. In general breaking and reconnecting the chain should be done only when necessary, if you do it perfectly your chain is probably as strong as new, but the narrower the chain the harder it is to be perfect. Remember, broken chains cause nasty crashes.
http://bicycletutor.com/calculate-chain-length/ this is "Modern Shimano" method, not necessarily other systems or custom gearing, check big/big & small/small combos w/ chain going through derailers, save the extra links as spares, and in case you put on a bigger cog, if you're not sure exactly how many links to remove remember that a chain that is 1 link too long is very unlikely to damage anything, a chain that is one link to short could possibly rip your derailer of and break your frame, if you break year chain during a ride the extra link will be needed.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubrication/ will need more frequent lubrication in wet conditions, Phil Wood Tenacious is a bit thick for chains and gets very dirty, I would only recommend it for extremely muddy conditions (Cyclocross). You don't need to spread the oil on all the gears. Dumonde Tech & Rock N Roll lube are some of the best lubes I've used. I recommend Tri-Flow well shaken and let dry overnight. For wax lube Boeshield T-9 last longest, but must be left to dry overnight or it will be very messy.Use a chain cleaner box to clean chain, much more effective especially in sandy/muddy conditions.
http://bicycletutor.com/lubricants/ remember, lube choice is very regional and condition/season specific
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch read this first, then watch the videos
http://bicycletutor.com/remove-install-wheels/ qr was a bit loose (thumb pressure), use palm pressure to close qr, sidepull brakes usually have a qr.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-wear/ also caused by worn CR, worn cogs & chain most likely cause of skipping, cogs will start wearing more @ 12 1/16, lots of good links to other videos
http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/ don't use pliers on multi speed quick links, just squeeze the plates together, not all quick links are reusable.
http://bicycletutor.com/stiff-chain-link/ stiff links also caused by worn bushings & rust, you can't always repair a stiff link, make sure the pin sticks out the same on both sides. don't bend 9-11 speed chains sideways
http://bicycletutor.com/replace-cassette-cluster/ make sure to get the correct lockring tool for your brand of cassette, position tools at 3 & 9 o'clock, push down, and keep your knuckles out of the way, there may be a spacer underneath the last cog, double check the shifting and RD alignment w/ new cogs, always replace cassette w/ same # of gears & appropriate sizes. Make sure gears don't hit spokes.
http://bicycletutor.com/replace-freewheel/ freehubs are stronger and axle better supported, but wear out, use a qr w/ 2 & 4 prong tools to keep tool from slipping, adjust the RD limits after riding the freewheel to tighten it, always lube a freewheel (Phil Wood oil or similar, not grease!) before you put it back on. Make sure gears don't hit spokes.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/, also look for non-remove-able Shimano pins, on 7-11 speed chains you need to re-rivet the pin (Rohloff), use a special pin (Shimano) or use a quick link, follow manufacturer instructions!!! Broken chains can cause lots of expensive damage & nasty crashes. In general breaking and reconnecting the chain should be done only when necessary, if you do it perfectly your chain is probably as strong as new, but the narrower the chain the harder it is to be perfect. Remember, broken chains cause nasty crashes.
http://bicycletutor.com/calculate-chain-length/ this is "Modern Shimano" method, not necessarily other systems or custom gearing, check big/big & small/small combos w/ chain going through derailers, save the extra links as spares, and in case you put on a bigger cog, if you're not sure exactly how many links to remove remember that a chain that is 1 link too long is very unlikely to damage anything, a chain that is one link to short could possibly rip your derailer of and break your frame, if you break year chain during a ride the extra link will be needed.
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubrication/ will need more frequent lubrication in wet conditions, Phil Wood Tenacious is a bit thick for chains and gets very dirty, I would only recommend it for extremely muddy conditions (Cyclocross). You don't need to spread the oil on all the gears. Dumonde Tech & Rock N Roll lube are some of the best lubes I've used. I recommend Tri-Flow well shaken and let dry overnight. For wax lube Boeshield T-9 last longest, but must be left to dry overnight or it will be very messy.Use a chain cleaner box to clean chain, much more effective especially in sandy/muddy conditions.
http://bicycletutor.com/lubricants/ remember, lube choice is very regional and condition/season specific
Basic Extra! - Tools
Tools: Some of my favorite sites about tools. Cheap tools are a waste of money, but we can't all have Snap-On (the first shop I worked at used all snap on tools, 4 sets!). In general if it's not a bike specific tool and you can get it at Sears/Craftsman etc. you can save money for equal or better quality than Park/Pedros. For the bike specific stuff Park & Pedros are medium quality, and should last a lifetime of home use, you can get some really fancy & expensive tools if you're using them everday in a shop they will probably last longer.
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/ they have just about every tool under the sun, and tons of small parts too
http://www.efficientvelo.com/ this is the guy from Bike Gallery, very nice tools, check out the cool pictures
http://www.mcmaster.com/ not bike specific, but just about everything under the sun
http://www.parktool.com/ "big blue" decent tools, reasonable price, not my favorite, website also has some good repair advice. The kits give you an idea of what tools to get, and you can save money vs. buying piece by piece
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=SK%2D1 this kit will get you started
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=AK%2D37 the next step up
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=RK%2D41 a very complete kit for the skilled home mechanic
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=MK%2D187 eventually I will have them all (but not all blue), this kit would almost set up a retail shop.
http://www.pedros.com/ I think most of their tools are a little nicer than Park, but you pay a little more for them.
http://www.pedros.com/products_tools.htm comparable to the park pk-63 with a nicer case, contains most of the tools a traveling pro mechanic would use.
http://feedbacksports.com/ this is the repair stand I use
http://www.topeak.com/ I have a few Topeak tools I like
http://www.google.com/products?q=wrench+force&oe=UTF-8&brand=Wrench+Force&lnk=brsugg some Wrench Force Tools were made for Trek by Snap-On, but they have been discontinued, very nice, but hard to find. I love my Wrench Force 4 way spoke wrench.
http://www.craftsman.com/ reasonable price, great warranty, most of my "non-bike" tools are craftsman or "Husky" from Home Depot
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do cheap prices, variable quality, I buy simple tools here, and power tools that I don't expect to last very long.
http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Bench-top-Bike-Repair-Stand/ I came across this site describing how to make your own repair stand, but you could hang your bike from a piece of rope or a hook in the ceiling much easier (I've seen shops that hang bikes rather than use repair stands)
http://www.yourmtb.com/story/build_your_own_bike_repair_stand_for_under_20 another homemade stand, neither one is portable :-(
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/ they have just about every tool under the sun, and tons of small parts too
http://www.efficientvelo.com/ this is the guy from Bike Gallery, very nice tools, check out the cool pictures
http://www.mcmaster.com/ not bike specific, but just about everything under the sun
http://www.parktool.com/ "big blue" decent tools, reasonable price, not my favorite, website also has some good repair advice. The kits give you an idea of what tools to get, and you can save money vs. buying piece by piece
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=SK%2D1 this kit will get you started
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=AK%2D37 the next step up
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=RK%2D41 a very complete kit for the skilled home mechanic
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=MK%2D187 eventually I will have them all (but not all blue), this kit would almost set up a retail shop.
http://www.pedros.com/ I think most of their tools are a little nicer than Park, but you pay a little more for them.
http://www.pedros.com/products_tools.htm comparable to the park pk-63 with a nicer case, contains most of the tools a traveling pro mechanic would use.
http://feedbacksports.com/ this is the repair stand I use
http://www.topeak.com/ I have a few Topeak tools I like
http://www.google.com/products?q=wrench+force&oe=UTF-8&brand=Wrench+Force&lnk=brsugg some Wrench Force Tools were made for Trek by Snap-On, but they have been discontinued, very nice, but hard to find. I love my Wrench Force 4 way spoke wrench.
http://www.craftsman.com/ reasonable price, great warranty, most of my "non-bike" tools are craftsman or "Husky" from Home Depot
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do cheap prices, variable quality, I buy simple tools here, and power tools that I don't expect to last very long.
http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Bench-top-Bike-Repair-Stand/ I came across this site describing how to make your own repair stand, but you could hang your bike from a piece of rope or a hook in the ceiling much easier (I've seen shops that hang bikes rather than use repair stands)
http://www.yourmtb.com/story/build_your_own_bike_repair_stand_for_under_20 another homemade stand, neither one is portable :-(
Basic Extra! - On the Web
I would take the majority of information found on bicycle forums with a grain of salt, I find a lot of misinformation and opinion being put forward as fact in most of the forums I've seen. In general "advice is worth what you pay for it", and if they're trying to sell you something it's not advice, it's a sales pitch. Try to find out the qualifications/experience of the adviser. What's true in one region, or for one type of bicycle, or for one rider, may not be true for another. Anecdotal evidence is based on one persons experience, probably with only one bicycle, and one type of component, and one sample of a particular component; even Honda and Toyota make the occasional lemon and have the occasional recall. Professionals work on a lot more bicycles, and see many samples of the same components, so they are more likely (but not guaranteed) to make statistically valid judgments. Bikes are pretty simple, if someone doesn't have a good reason why you should do something, don't. Don't do something just because that's the way it was done in the past. Bicycle technology is always changing, and even the best mechanics can't keep up with all the changes. "It's always a good idea to read the instructions, but not always necessary to follow them."
My opinion on some of the links:
Bicycle Tutor videos: he uses "common knowledge" not necessarily following instructions or having a good reason for doing something, especially regarding 9-11 spd chains. Seems to have a limited experience regarding old vs new bikes and riding conditions in different regions. Most of these are good, but of course I do have a few different personal preferences, I would rate them A- to B grade.
Sheldon Brown: was recognized worldwide as an authority, also an excellent writer, grade A+, but that doesn't mean he always has the "only" right answer. He usually does a good job of presenting both sides of an argument and using reason to come to a conclusion. http://sheldonbrown.com/home.html
Lennard Zinn at Velo News is also very knowledgeable, and if he doesn't know the answer he has the inside track to someone who does. velonews.com
Jobst Brandt http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/ & http://yarchive.net/bike/index.html, very smart guy, lots of opinions...
Keith Bontrager: I have owned 6 Bontragers, he's a personal hero of mine, very smart, takes a different approach to bike design, in the MTB Hall of Fame... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keith_Bontrager please show me any good links you find to old Bontrager article
Ric Hjertberg: I used to work for Ric, he teaches the USAC pro mechanic clinics at the OTC http://www.wheelfanatyk.blogspot.com/ http://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=3241%20 world renowned wheel builder, founder of Wheelsmith.
some miscellaneous websites you may find interesting:
http://www.thepedalwrench.com/ http://www.bikeforums.net/ http://bikeportland.org/ http://dclxvi.org/chunk/ http://www.icebike.org/Default.htm http://www.sheldonbrown.com/recbikes.html http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/index.htm
My opinion on some of the links:
Bicycle Tutor videos: he uses "common knowledge" not necessarily following instructions or having a good reason for doing something, especially regarding 9-11 spd chains. Seems to have a limited experience regarding old vs new bikes and riding conditions in different regions. Most of these are good, but of course I do have a few different personal preferences, I would rate them A- to B grade.
Sheldon Brown: was recognized worldwide as an authority, also an excellent writer, grade A+, but that doesn't mean he always has the "only" right answer. He usually does a good job of presenting both sides of an argument and using reason to come to a conclusion. http://sheldonbrown.com/home.html
Lennard Zinn at Velo News is also very knowledgeable, and if he doesn't know the answer he has the inside track to someone who does. velonews.com
Jobst Brandt http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/ & http://yarchive.net/bike/index.html, very smart guy, lots of opinions...
Keith Bontrager: I have owned 6 Bontragers, he's a personal hero of mine, very smart, takes a different approach to bike design, in the MTB Hall of Fame... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keith_Bontrager please show me any good links you find to old Bontrager article
Ric Hjertberg: I used to work for Ric, he teaches the USAC pro mechanic clinics at the OTC http://www.wheelfanatyk.blogspot.com/ http://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=3241%20 world renowned wheel builder, founder of Wheelsmith.
some miscellaneous websites you may find interesting:
http://www.thepedalwrench.com/ http://www.bikeforums.net/ http://bikeportland.org/ http://dclxvi.org/chunk/ http://www.icebike.org/Default.htm http://www.sheldonbrown.com/recbikes.html http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/index.htm
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